Questions & Answers

1. Where do I apply the film? See Residential Film Application Instruction sheet
   
   The INSIDE is the window pane you can touch when you are inside your home. The OUTSIDE is the window pane you touch when you are outside your home.
   a. Apply the Heat Control Insulating and Reflective films to the INSIDE only.
   b. Apply the Privacy Mirror and Frosted films to the INSIDE only.
   
2. What are the five secrets to a successful job?
   
   a. Read the Application Instructions thoroughly before you begin. These are rolled up within the film, so unroll the film a few feet to find them.
   b. Collect all needed tools before you begin. These tools include: GILA Film Aid™ concentrate, a rubber squeegee, a utility knife with breakaway blades, a trigger spray bottle, lint-free toweling or coffee filters, transparent tape, and a single-edge razor blade to clean the glass.
   c. Use smaller pieces of "extra" film to practice application before starting your first window.
   d. Two people working together make this a very simple project.
   e. Apply the soapy solution generously to keep the glass and the adhesive side of the film wet during the application.
   
3. Is Gila Window Film safe for dual-pane windows?
   
   All Gila Window Films are safe for dual pane windows if used correctly. If you have dual pane windows, we highly recommend the heat control films for best performance.
   
4. How do I make the soapy solution and why is it important?
   
   See Residential Film Application sheet
   We recommend using our Film Aid™ concentrate to make the soapy solution needed to clean the glass, apply the film, and clean the film. One 1.2 oz bottle of Film Aid added to one quart of bottled (distilled or purified is preferable) will make enough soapy solution to apply approximately 100 sq ft of film. If your local retailer does not stock Film Aid, you can make a fair substitute by adding a quarter of a teaspoon of No Tears Shampoo (without conditioner) to one quart water, shake up, allow the bubbles to settle, then use.
   
   The soapy solution keeps the glass surface clean and slick. It allows you to apply then position the film; and it lubricates the top of the film so the squeegee glides evenly across the film. Be generous with the soapy solution.
   
5. When is the best time to apply film?
   
   Whenever the glass is cool is the best time to apply film. During the summer, after 8 P.M. and before 9 A.M. is usually the very best time because the glass is cooler and you will be cooler working close to the window during the evening hours.
   
   During the year, the best time to apply film is when the average daytime temperature is in the 80's-90's. Do not apply film when the outside temperature will fall below freezing (32 F.) anytime during the first three days after you apply the film, or else the adhesive may crystallize and the film may fall off. Do not apply film in direct sunlight because the soapy solution will evaporate too quickly.
   
6. Why do I need to trim a gap around the film edge?
   
   Squeegeeing all the water out from under the film is impossible without the gap trimmed around the perimeter edges of the film sheet. Trapped water leaves behind unsightly air and water bubbles, which are impossible to remove once the film has fully cured (dried). If the film is too large, "fingers" will appear along the edges, usually along the bottom; and as they "grow," they pull dirt under the film. You should trim the film before squeegeeing the majority of the water out from under the film. Around the edges, you can absorb this excess water (and dirt) more easily by wrapping a paper coffee filter or two around the edge of your squeegee blade. See Residential Instructions
   
   The gap also permits adequate room for the glass to expand and contract, as it becomes warm and cool within the window frame. When applied according to the instructions, all GILA residential window films are designed to be fully compatible with standard residential windows, whether single- or dual-pane.
   
   A handy tool for trimming the gap is a credit card. The gap should be no less than the edge of a credit card and no greater than 1/8".
   
7. How should I clean window film?
   
   The best way to clean the film is to use the soapy solution (one bottle GILA Film Aid concentrate + 1 ltr bottled water) and a rubber squeegee. These are the same tools you used to apply the film. Thoroughly spray the area to be cleaned with the soapy solution. Spray your hand. Rub the area to break up any dirt or grease. Respray and squeegee. Use lint-free towels or paper coffee filters to wipe up excess soapy solution.
   
   Although the Heat Control Insulating films have a special scratch-resistant coating to add greater durability to the film, we still recommend using the soapy solution to clean these films.
   
8. How long will window film last?
   
   The life expectancy of GILA window film depends upon the type of film, its exposure to the sun, the climate, and its cleaning and maintenance. With average care, the Heat Control and Privacy films should have an expected life of up to 15 years. The longevity of film is usually the result of direct exposure to UV rays (part of sunlight). The older the film, the less UV it can absorb effectively. If UV protection is an important reason for using film, we recommend replacing the film every five years. By that time, the protection level has gradually decreased from 99% to about 70% UV reduction, depending upon direct sun exposure.
   
9. Will film hurt my indoor plants?
   
   The most compatible film for sensitive indoor plants is either the Heat Control Insulating Light Gray or Light Bronze film. These films transmit higher portions of visible light spectrum that plants need for healthy photosynthesis. Darker films (ie. Glare Control) block too much of that light.
   
   Help your plants acclimate to the change in light by adjusting them over a five-day period. On day one, move the plants 1 foot further into the room. On day two, move them another foot. On day three, apply the film. On day four, move the plants a foot closer to the windows. On day five, move them another foot closer.
   
10. Can I put window film on plexiglass?
    
    We do not reccommend using window film on plexiglass. Window film adhesive is not designed for these "plastic" windows. Although it bonds very well into glass, film adhesive can combine with a natural byproduct of plastic, called "outgassing," and the result is bubbled and cracked film and discolored plastic windows. Depending upon exposure and its duration, this outgassing can deteriorate the appearance of the plastic window within a few months. Unfortunately, removing the film is virtually impossible without using a razor blade, which would mar the plastic during scrapping.
    
11. Can I put window film on my skylight?
    
    The most important element of this question is personal safety. Applying film to windows that you can easily reach is a skill that must be mastered before you consider applying film above your head. Anytime you consider applying film to a window that has a bottom edge more than 7 feet above the floor, you should seriously consider one of two options:
    
    (a) Work with an equally experienced partner as a team, or
    (b) Hire a contractor or window film installer to do the work for you.
    
    Handling film on a ladder is at least twice as difficult as applying film to a large patio door by yourself.
    
12. How do I replace old window film? See Tools
    
    We recommend the GILA FR200 Window Film Adhesive Remover solution as one of the best ways to remove old window film and adhesive from glass. This 8oz bottle is sold at the GILA Sun Control Window Film display at major home centers nationwide. One bottle removes between an average of 45-60 sq ft of film, depending upon how many years the film has been on the window and its exposure to direct sun.
    
    Directions for using the FR200 spray are printed on the bottle. In summary, (1) shake the bottle for 30-45 seconds to mix the solution properly, (2) spray the solution over the surface of the film until it is fully covered, (3) notice that the spray does not drip after contact, (4) wait 30-40 minutes*, (5) use the provided single-edge razor blade to loosen the top corner of the film, (6) peel the film down and off the window, (7) respray the adhesive to soften it, then (8) use the razor blade to shave off the softened adhesive.
    
    If the film has been on the window more than 5 years, you may want to reapply the solution after 1 hour, then wait another hour before peeling the film off.
    
    CAUTION: Be very careful when handling any razor blade or scraper. Keep your hands dry. Wear protective eye covering. We recommend that you shave upward so you can always see the direction in which the blade is moving. Keep the surface wet so the blade can easily shave the film and adhesive from the glass.
    
    If the FR200 is not available in your area, the steps below outline an "old fashioned" method of removing any brand of window film:
    
    Step 1: GATHER TOOLS
    ·Single-edge razor blades in a holder/scraper
    ·Spray bottle filled with 8oz water, 4 oz ammonia, 1 tsp dishwasher liquid soap
    ·Disposable toweling to clean the razor blade edge
    ·Old towel to protect window sill from loose adhesive
    ·Drop cloth to protect floor
    
    Step 2: REMOVE THE TOP FILM LAYER
    
    Use the razor blade to pry loose the top 1/2 - 3/4 inches along the top edge of the film. Spray the ammonia-water solution (aka "the solution") behind the lifted film and allow to soak for a minute. As you pry the film loose, continue to spray behind the loosened film. Continue this process until you have peeled 3-4 inches free from the glass. Using both hands, grasp this loosened film and pull the film downward. You may find it easier to peel diagonally from one corner to the center, then the other corner toward the center, then bunch the film up in your hands and pull the remainder down toward the bottom of the window. If the film sticks, spray the solution behind it to loosen the grip of the adhesive. As you rip the film from the window, the tearing sound you hear is the shredding of the old adhesive as part of it comes away with the film and part of it remains on the glass.
    
    If you have the time and the film has been in place more than five years, do the job overnight while you sleep. Spray the solution onto the top of the film, then cover the entire glass area with a precut plastic sheet (ie. 30-60 gal trash bag cut to size). Apply the plastic sheet on top of the wet film, then use masking tape strips to secure the bag around the inside of the window frame. Allow it to sit for 2-4 hours, then peel back the top edge, spray 10-20 "squirts" of the solution behind the plastic sheet, then reseal the top and allow to sit for 2-4 more hours (or overnight). During this time, the solution will soften the adhesive so you can more easily peel the old film from the window.
    
    CAUTION: Do not leave a black or dark plastic bag suspended over the window, especially if you have dual-pane windows. Leaving the bag in place on a warm/hot day can cause a significant heat stress to your windows, which could contribute to a window crack.
    
    Step 3: REMOVE THE ADHESIVE
    
    After removing the film, a translucent or clear layer of adhesive may remain on the glass. To remove, generously spray the entire surface with the solution. Rub the solution into the "dry" adhesive until it becomes milky white. This color is a sign that the adhesive has broken its bond to the glass and has become pliable enough to shave off. Respray the area you plan to shave, and use a new razor blade. Shave upward in quick movements. As the adhesive collects on the blade, wipe it clean with an old towel. (Note: When you are finished with the job, toss this towel in the trash. Do not wash it with other clothes.) Do not let the adhesive fall onto carpet or fabrics. Change blades as frequently as needed to keep a sharp edge and avoid scratching the glass.
    
    Step 4: CLEAN THE WINDOWS
    
    After removing all the adhesive, respray the window with the ammonia-water solution and clean with a squeegee. Look for any white dots and pick them off; they are leftover pieces of adhesive. The glass may look cloudy for a few hours while the ammonia evaporates. If you plan to apply new film, clean the glass immediately with the soapy-water application solution and allow the glass to "breathe" for at least 24 hours before you apply new film. Reclean the glass before applying the new film.
    
13. What is the warranty on the film?
    
    
    
14. Why does the film feel warm on hot days?
    
    All films feel very warm, even hot, when the windows are hot. The reason why depends upon the type of film, the type of window, and the type of weather. Basically, all films obstruct the transfer of heat from the outside of the window through to the inside of the room. The heat has to work much harder to move through this obstacle, so a lot of energy is dissipated through reflection, absorption, conduction, and convection. When you put your hand on the film, you feel much of this heat energy.
    
    Reflection measures how much energy the material reflects back into the glass. The higher the reflection, the greater the "heat gain" reduction. Utility companies often measure this as "shading coefficient."
    
    Convection measures how much energy is drawn away. The main cause of convection is air movement, such as a breeze outside or a moving fan indoors. Convection helps cool a surface by pulling heat away.
    
    Absorption measures how much heat the material absorbs. For example, the Glare Control vinyl tints absorb a lot of heat because they are dark-dyed vinyls. But the Heat Control films reflect very high percentages of heat because they are metallized polyester films.
    
    Conduction measures how much heat transfers through the film to the inside. Most of this heat is what is left after convection and reflection have rejected as much heat as they can. What comes out the other side of the film into the room is "net heat gain." Heat Control films have the lowest heat gain because they have excellent heat reflection. Glare Control vinyl and Privacy Frosted films do not contain metal, do not reflect heat as efficiently, and so reduce less "heat gain".
    
    See Product Specifications
    
15. I have a question you haven't answered in the FAQ's.
    
    Email your question to wfsales.runcorn@cpfilms.co.uk. We will find the answer to your question.